High in the Arctic !! Eskimo....

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    work work work, mile after mile, day after day, no pay !! Just the right to eat, and no one complains !!

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    Notice the seal skin gloves on Eugene Brower !!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Tuesday, we are still n the village, west wind is still blowing. We need that west wind to increase. We need the temps to drop. Alapa Anaui 'Cold & windy.
    That ice that on the other side of the lead, has to advance with much force to jam this ice together to make it stronger and thicker. The higher the pressure ridges, the safer and more solid the ice is. The work load increases, but that is not a problem, - happy days full of laughter !!

    In the background is Ben Itta's Truck with his logo and name. This captains gear in the foreground is ready to be taken out to the ice when conditions improve. The caribou skins are for sitting, on the sled @ camp. There is one sled in the tent, and one sled @ the lead opening itself.

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    Instead of caribou skins and or other animals fur, this captain has his sled loaded with blue insulation, very warm for sitting for long periods of time, waiting, the days will soon be filled with excitement and much hunting and harvesting of food for the many familes of this and other communities.
    Believe it or not, some of this food is sent to amost every one of the lower 48 states, and even to some countries around the world !!
    Naqkupak !!

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    Checking out equipment and getting everything ready to head on out.

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    The outboard motor is mounted on the umiaq !

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Wednesdays news : It is not good, We have West wind, we are still in town, west winds are predicted to last all week long, We need those winds to increase in speed and strength. It needs to get much colder, we need much thicker ice.
    Problems have risen out on the ice and Eugene Brower is a bit upset from other crews using his trail, 5 crews were stopped last night and told to get off that trail, (they did not help) Eugene spent a lot of money to have his trail prepared, he has already gone through 3 - 55 gallon drums of fuel.
    The captain foots the bill for the entire crew. Fuel, ammunition, food. (and other supplies if necessary).
    Two miles out on the trail, Eugene encounters a young white man with his girl friend and some small children on a snow machine on his trail. "What are you doing out here? You are not allowed here, especially so far out alone, Oh ! the young man said.. we are just joyriding. Eugene glared - Polar bears are roaming about out here, and you do not even have any weapons??. GET OFF THIS ICE NOW !! This is not a tourist attraction !!
    Each crew is responsible to break their own trail; not to take over someone else's trail. in Point Hope there are 20 whaling captains & crews, I am not sure of the exact number of captains and crews here in Barrow but I will acquire that information asap.

    My favorite photo of breaking trail was set up and posed, these two captains are really sitting on the pick handle(s), the picks were carefully arranged so as not to show the picks or any shadows. This is straight out of the camera, no photoshop !!

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    The most photographed site in Barrow, the jaw bone arches of a huge bowhead whale !
    What most people do not know, is that these were erected in 1964, by people from Point Hope !
    Ron Oviok told me the story one day, and I was very surprised to hear what he had to say. The people in Barrow wanted to erect these bones, but did not know the proper procedure, a call was made to Point Hope and some people came up to do the job !!

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    1934 is when these villages drafted up their constitution for village government.
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    The skull of a bowhead whale, I think there are 4 of these throughout the village.
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    Word just came over the phone, we are possibly headed out tonight @ 8:00 P.M. to begin whaling !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    It is way too hot, the captain said, if this keeps up, we will not go whaling, the ice is very thin at the lead opening as in inches not feet. Cold weather is expected Wednesday, i'm told. time will tell.

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    Whaling in Barrow is much different than whaling in Point Hope.
    In Barrow the women stay home and do the cooking, food is brought out to the crews. In Barrow the tent is at the lead, and it is just for the hunters.
    In Point Hope, women break trail also, women are on the ice at all times in the tents - cooking, the hunters sleep outside with no tents.
    There are many other differences also - as we move along in the hunt I will point these differences out. Point Hope is the only village that still does everything in the traditional manner.
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Monday evening @ 7:00 p.m. finally we are transporting the umiaq and other supplies out to the camp site, many miles out on the ocean ice pack, which is rapidly melting !!

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    The crew - and what they are about to do !! (EUGENE BROWERS CREW)
    Transport all of this stuff, out through the trail down to the camp site !!

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    You have no idea, what it involves and what it costs, to keep a crew, supplied out on the ocean ice pack - living for many weeks !!
    empty your kitchen.. pack it up.. your going to need almost everything !!!
    and you have.. no running water' to do the dishes for 15 people 4 times a day !!!!!

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    We have arrived at our camp site, now lets setup the tent !!!

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    This entire hunt, from breaking trail, setting up camp, the hunt - & inside the umiaq. day by day. is all going to be posted, to let you see first hand, what these people have to do - to eat !! The most incredible amount of backbreaking hard work you have ever imagined !! - and more !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    next1.JPG

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    Now we have one more thing to do to finish this job .. .. ..
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    The most important part.. .. we have to delegate someone, to test it !!! (chuckle)
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    Camp site is working, all finished, some minor things, left to do.
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    We are gaining, 12 more minutes of light, each day, The famous 'midnight sun' !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    DEM - R - DUX
    THOUSANDS of ducks pass by all day long, plenty of food to be harvested !!

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    The hunters are the cooks !! Here in Barrow, there are no women in the tent - cooking & cleaning, it is just the hunters !!
    & a boyer !!


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    Training starts very young out here on the ice, I guess you could say.. .. this is the lowest level !! (chuckle) !!


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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    ducks ducks ducks, all day long, every day for weeks !!!

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    As you can easily see, we are far from the lead, (which is closed).
    Much more work to be done, clearing a trail out to the lead !! More work, lots of work to be done every day - by everyone - no one is excluded from this work !!
    Cleaning and loading the shoulder gun !! This is the whaling captain . Fredrick Brower !! "BOMB PROOF" is his new nickname !! (chuckle) believe it or not. this man had a harpoon explode and go right through the palm of his hand ! Last fall, the exploding harpoon went off twice, with the safety on !! No one was hurt !!

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    the ice on the sled is what is left of our drinking water !!

    And .. .. ..The Video !!

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    And.. .. another VIDEO

    When there is no room in the tent (full) then it is time to sleep outside !!
    It is almost 5:00 a.m. !!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    I was surprised to see, that they do not use home made wood stoves out here, when I asked why ? They laughed and said.. it takes too long to break down, when we have to evacuate because of advancing ice. NO fire to put out, no stove pipes to clean, no wood to gather and chop !!

    Wow !! I bet the boyer sure likes that !!

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    3 different crews, in our area, they asked permission to use the trail we made - Eugene said Yes ! but when people (5 crews) try to take it over, some people got very upset !!

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    A happy hunter displays his first duck of the season !!

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    Charles is the cook, for tonights meal !!
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    (chuckle) and.. .. The Video !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Time to get back to work on the trail !!

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    Here is one of the markers, that is sighted to determine which way the ice is moving. These are lined up in a row across a great distance, you need binoculars to see the 'line' of markers out here.

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    It is much to hot out here now, messy, and dangerous, it is very easy to fall through the ice. (fingers crossed).

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    Jesse fell in once, a few years ago. ( in tghis exact spot) It was below zero, lucky for him he had a [pack pack nearby and changed, came home exhausted and fell asleep

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    this was the image, that inspired me to name my blog "A BLOG OF ICE"
    you can see an umiaq, in the background, waiting for a whale to give itself over to the captain ( it never happend) !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Food for the inupiaq people(s), for over 3,000 years. Who else has a documented history of that length of time ?? wow !!!
    Here is a flipper or fluke being brought out to the camp site from one of the whales that was caught last fall. This piece will feed the crew, small portions daily, for the many weeks we have left. but with this heat, I am very skeptical. We need strong East winds that are very cold.
    30 below or colder.. ..

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    The tail is all 'blubber, the fins, flukes, flippers are 100% blubber, the only meat, is on the chest, for a 25 foot whale - (teenager) about a wheel barrow full. Tavra (that's all).

    Back to work, on the trail, from camp site to the lead. We do not know where, when it will break open again. We need strong cold winds ( to make the ice thicker).
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    The ice is nice, and an overcast day is a welcome relief from the heat,
    Notice the darkness on the bottom of some of the clouds, that is open water.

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    The pristene magnificent world of ice, the light - changes things out here, colors, reflecting.
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    Open water is easy to spot.. .. you got all day / night to look around, or take a walk to go seal hunting !!
    After work is finished for the day .. .. work work work.. there is always something for everyone to do.
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 5, 2009
    Open water is easy to spot.. .. you got all day / night to look around, or take a walk to go seal hunting !!
    After work is finished for the day .. .. work work work.. there is always something for everyone to do.

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    FOOD DELIVERY - all day every day, it flies in, swims in, walks in, ya just gotta be aware of what is going on around you.. .. in all directions !!
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    Smile: !!! rolleyes1.gif
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    The entire focus of this photo essay.. .. The Inupiaq peoples plight to obtain.. .. 'their food' !
    To document with photos and text - Their activities out on the ocean ice. Most people have no idea what is involved, brief snapshots of time during the hunt. But to see it all, day by day, weeks of patience living out on that ice ! Working hard, and sometimes in very messy conditions.
    The entire lifesyle, revolves around, the Mighty Bowhead Whale.
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Polar bear tracks are spotted near our trail, we decided to follow them for about 1/2 mile

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    No sight of the bear yet, but these tracks are very fresh, the snow is melting, quickly, you can see the 'texture'
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    Looks like this bear found some food, a seals den ??
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    We never saw the bear, we headed back to camp.
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  • ian408ian408 Administrators Posts: 21,948 moderator
    edited May 6, 2009
    I've followed your tale for a time now and am very appreciative of your telling it.

    It's a great look into what, for most of us, is a very different way of life.
    Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Charging up,through the sunlight, you easily become solar powered out here, as long as your outside in that blinding sunlight all day, you feel no effects of being tired, it is very easy to stay alert and awake for 3 days.
    The only way to experience this solar power thing, is to be out here, 24/ 7
    A few hours rest, and your good to go again.

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    Tired boyer resting.

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    2 crews are now set up in our area.

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    We wait, for the lead to open so we can make a trail from the camp site to the lead !!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Wait ! that is a large portion of the Inupiaq way of life, especially out here on the ice pack. Wait .. .. ..

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    Rest where you can, and when you can ! We still have to clear a trail from the tent site, to the lead opening, more work to do, every day, all day. If that wind shifts to west, we have to pack up and SCRAM. as quick as possible. Everyone is aware of the wind and which direction it is blowing. It is unbearable out here, when there is no wind. too hot. temps are above zero. everything is melting, the ice at the lead is about 5 foot thick. not near as thick as we would like it to be.

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    Filling in water holes, markers are placed where additional work needs to be done.


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    Wait, watch, look & listen.. .. .. all day !!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Everyone, even some of the youngest boyers, are armed. Shooting accidents are virtually non-existant out here, and even in the village, but the amount of fire-arms out here, is obvious. Everyone needs some type of weapon, to hunt. but yesterday, we missed our prized Kodak moment.
    The hunter of the day - (chuckle) it all happend so fast, we had no chance to capture this with a camera.

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    We were at the tent campsite, laid back, resting, this dude was lying on a sled, a flock of ducks flew so low over us, directly over us, in one swift movment, this boy's arm reached out grabeed a shovel and he jumped up in the air as high as he could, and batted a duck to the ground with one swift high arched swing !!. Hey how about that.. .. no bullets and I got another duck !!

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    Two crews are spread out over a vast area, we come together, near the lead opening, to set up the camp @ the lead, then there is more work to be done
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Take the time.. .. get some ice, and fill this water hole, let it freeze, then bust it up (smaller)

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    People insist I am crazy, when I state that you can see, the curvature of the earth from out here. BUT, I have no way to prove this, except to say, when you look to your right and then look to your lets, it is obvous.
    This image sorta shows, but you need that wide view (left to right) to really see this. I sure laughed one night recently, when watching the history channel, speed records, in Utah, out far on the salf flats, they said.. .. " it is so flat out here, you can actually see the curvature of the Earth !! (chuckle).

    More additions to the tent area, lash up and connect the VHF radio, now we can communicate with other crews and home base, in the village.

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    Notice: the sleds, their position, it is critical, for when we have to evacuate the ice because of advancing ice. When it is time to killigvuk, everything is mass panic to get packed and get the hell out of here as quickly as possible, back to the safety of land. It is not a question of 'if' but a question of when !!

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    How many ? boats can you see ???

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Father & son portrait ! One of our young boyers !!

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    Look.. .. wait .. .. watch & listen - always be aware of the direction of the wind. Constantly, this is critical and most important, it can change, at any point in time.

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    Yawn ! good morning !! Morning pow-wow meeting, plans are made for the day, people spread out all over the ice, 37 whaling captains and their crews.

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    Just imagine the force needed to drive these huge chunks of ice upwards, the crashing noise they make as the ice advances towards your location, is a scary sight to see indeed, - killigvuk - run !!! I hope to get some videos of advancing ice, from a safe distance w/ sound! You will not believe this ice show !! Not unless you actually see and hear the grinding, crashing!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    It is getting messy, at places, we actually have to fill in these holes, chop ice, back to work, lots to do and acomplish to make this camp site safer.

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    You get the best tan in your life out here, with all the reflections of ice all around you, it takes about 3 days !! Just on your face and hands !!

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    Ducks by the dozen .. .. (chuckle) .. A duck was shot, it did a nose-dive straight down - @ a 45 degree angle, crash - right into a slab of ice, it stuck, the beak, embedded into the ice, the face torn, still moving- quivering, it was grabbed and neck snapped. That actually happend, you will just not beileve some of these storeis associated with duck hunting. side splitting laughter. We have some videos, hopefully tonight I can get these processed so that you can hear-from the natives- their stories!!

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    A very young boyer - in training - two years old !!
    It doesn't take long, for a little child to learn simple things out here, especially when they are out here.. .. 24 / 7 for weeks !!

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    At least he does't have to chop wood & use 'sicpan' !!

    Tent site or camp site
    Those are two different locations, for each crew!
    Two different sleds are needed just for sitting. One at the lead opening, the other up at the tent site.

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    This scene is timeless, ever changing, and never the same. FOOD is headed our way, we have to be out here, all set up - BEFORE they arrive.
    Hundreds of people, embedded into the ice. waiting.. .. ..

    Fredrick Brower - whaling captain for Eugene Browers crew - The Bomb maker, he also has a new nickname - Bomb proof ! Lots of accidents happen with these bombs. people always get hurt or loose something, Fredrick has had 3 bombs go off (over the years). you will listen on one of the video's of how he threw a bomb at the whale and it came flying right back into the boat, no one was hurt.


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  • crowcrow Registered Users Posts: 87 Big grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    absolutely fascinating, I spent my morning reading this thread. Thanks for sharing your way of life
    jfghckgvlhyvluijhb;ijol m,lll
  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Thank you so much for spending your valuable time ! Listening to my concerns !!

    This culture must never perish !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    This scene is timeless, ever changing, and never the same. FOOD is headed our way, we have to be out here, all set up - BEFORE they arrive.
    Hundreds of people, embedded into the ice. waiting.. .. ..

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    The shoulder gun bomb !! These things go for $1,000 bucks a shot I am told. That seems rather steep, but they are required by law to use these exploding harpoons, the Inupiaq do not like these, if you miss the vital spot on a whale, these things will not allow the whale to heal, as well as with the old style harpoons.

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    NOW... .. ... we are finally ready, believe it or not, we could be in this state (waiting) for weeks !!! sit and wait.. they will come ! All sorts of animals migrate through this lead, every year for many thousands of years, this just beats the heck out of standing in line.. in a grocery store!! When have you ever .. .. had this much fun.. .. shopping for food ?? (chuckle).

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    The bottoms of clouds always show you the area, where open water exists.

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    Wait & watch - all day long - the major work - is finished. Time to hunt ! & rest !

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    Excitement is in the air - anything can happen at any time now.. .. ..

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    and it did.. the harpoon bomb piece of wood somehow broke, Zacharia, is the only one who knows how to fix this. He is the oldest elder on this crew, He is down here on Eugenes crew for one reason - He knows the ice, much better than anyone else. These currents change, and not necessarly in the same direction as the wind, there is much to learn and understand - if he imparts that information, in an understanding manner for us to share.

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Eugene Brower & The Eves boys a.k.a. Ma j i k I ma j e (Isaiah is missing) he is in Point Hope !
    MarkAndrew (left) Jesse & Khris (right)

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    I am the 'baker' for this crew !! Naqachii (mix dough). Cheese, Onion, Jalepeno biscuits, That combo is their favorite, But Eugenes wife,said .. .. " I want you to make me some of those Onion biscuits that I have heard so much about. Hmmmmm.. yummy ! I love to make bread and just give most of it away, We do our best to make a lot of people happy, I (we) love to give !!
    One of the greatest 'promises' I have ever read.. .. .. says these words.. (basically) (Malachi chapter 2) ... TEST ME .. Prove me wrong. Give... and I will give back 3 times, 5 times, pressed down, running over !!
    I have been practicing this for over 50 years,, and ya know what ?? It always works !!!

    Can you see the animal.. in this image ???

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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    A frozen, white world of nothing but ice !!! In every direction for many miles !!
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    The land of the midnight sun !!
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    We have to cut a trail from the tent to the lead, we have to move, we have to move more ice !!
    Notice the polar bear mittens, 'crossed' behind his back to keep them in place until needed !!!
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    I want you to notice, the massive amount of ice, that was removed to create this site here at the lead opening !!
    Remove it all, and throw it into the ocean !!
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  • Majik ImajeMajik Imaje Registered Users Posts: 266 Major grins
    edited May 6, 2009
    Look .. .. .. watch this .. ..

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    What a life.. .. this is just the most exciting time of the year.
    Now we wait, watch, look, listen.. .. .. .. did you see that ??

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    All of the action, takes place.. .. at the lead ! This is our new home.

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    ALL PHOTOS
    NEW ARCTIC FORUM

    working around the clock to restore lost 'forum' & all photos
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