well the Nikon went in for service today, all that dust took its toll on the 55-200 lens so the local schedule shows this as a good time to send it in.
I might even MX my WR in a Dual Sport class this sunday.
So when you say "rain gear" what kind of gear are you taking about?
I gotta tell you of my Mc Gyver rain tube. I get the Sunday newspaper in a plastic translucent sleeve.. I cut the end off & that's my rain sleeve. But wait a minute you need a suppressor near the lens end so you can flop the end down or roll up. I prefer a red velcro strap 1/2" X 12" at hardware stores.
I can see the controls thru the plastic and it rolls smaller than dedicated covers.
I don't really give a damn if I lose it either, I mean how far away is Sunday.
well the Nikon went in for service today, all that dust took its toll on the 55-200 lens so the local schedule shows this as a good time to send it in.
I might even MX my WR in a Dual Sport class this sunday.
So when you say "rain gear" what kind of gear are you taking about?
Hey Erbe have you used Active D to mitigate that issue (high dynamic range)? I did and it sucks when cropping (a lot of noise)
How do you deal with it.
Rags
I tried the Active D lighting once in camera on a pic that had alot of shadow in it but I really didn't like not having control of what was changed. In Photoshop I can Post Process way better than my Nikon Camera's. So, if I can save the pic in PP, I will otherwise, I'll toss it. I downloaded the blown out pic posted earlier and did some PP to it and now, I think it's a decent pic compared to the original. Check it out. Just spend some time really learning Photoshop or whatever you use to PP and it will really help you save images.
There is improvement but the number plate is not recoverable
PP is a great software, but I'm pizzed off at Adobe. I bought Light Room 1.2 & 4 months later I changed cams (D700&D90) to find that LR wouldn't process. Adobe didn't put out firmware change and required that you buy LR2; I passed.
I never did like the proprietary file you wound up with after processing; who knows where Adobe will be in 20 yrs and if their new software will open the old files.
I use Picassa3 which is great for work flow; but not as good editing. I'm waiting for a decent NX, probably release #14
There is improvement but the number plate is not recoverable
PP is a great software, but I'm pizzed off at Adobe. I bought Light Room 1.2 & 4 months later I changed cams (D700&D90) to find that LR wouldn't process. Adobe didn't put out firmware change and required that you buy LR2; I passed.
I never did like the proprietary file you wound up with after processing; who knows where Adobe will be in 20 yrs and if their new software will open the old files.
Convert to a DNG file and then you'll be able to work on those files.
I think the image still needs some shadow work done to it, let me see more detail in the rider. There's lots of detail in the background but big whoop dee do. The photo is of the rider, give me more detail in the rider.
I tried the Active D lighting once in camera on a pic that had alot of shadow in it but I really didn't like not having control of what was changed. In Photoshop I can Post Process way better than my Nikon Camera's. So, if I can save the pic in PP, I will otherwise, I'll toss it. I downloaded the blown out pic posted earlier and did some PP to it and now, I think it's a decent pic compared to the original. Check it out. Just spend some time really learning Photoshop or whatever you use to PP and it will really help you save images.
Thanx for the info.The picture does look better.I've got PS CS4 and Lightroom so I'll play around with it some and see what workz...
We don't get much rain here (CA), so there's little slop. As a former New Yorker I'm pretty glad about it
Can I ask how do you work the focus? I've been trying to pre focus and wait till the raider reaches that point but I keep getting soft images,and on the jumps I haven't been able to calculate the distance,can you pass me a few tips?? Thank You...btw awesome shots!
When you prefocus, the point you prefocus on is held in the cam, which is ?ft from your subject. I tried it and it didn't work for me. It does in landscapes tho'.
Consider spot focus & wait till you get the subject and increase your fstop to increase depth of field (that can be your fudge factor). So if their coming at you fast, focus on any part of them. When you get your focus routine set you can start opening your lens to get better subject separation (less background focus).
I'm way open for criticism so if someone else wants to chime in please do.
When you prefocus, the point you prefocus on is held in the cam, which is ?ft from your subject. I tried it and it didn't work for me. It does in landscapes tho'.
Consider spot focus & wait till you get the subject and increase your fstop to increase depth of field (that can be your fudge factor). So if their coming at you fast, focus on any part of them. When you get your focus routine set you can start opening your lens to get better subject separation (less background focus).
I'm way open for criticism so if someone else wants to chime in please do.
Rags
No, that's good advise. The key point being to increase the depth of field.
Consider spot focus & wait till you get the subject and increase your fstop to increase depth of field (that can be your fudge factor).
when you say increase the Fstop do you mean go to a more wide open or more closed aperture, and how do you account for lighting.
as in, assuming its a bright sunny day and you're shooting S mode where you set the shutter, camera picks the Fstop by metering itself. you can then switch to M and chose your own Aperture, but will you risk too much or too little light?
when you say increase the Fstop do you mean go to a more wide open or more closed aperture, and how do you account for lighting.
as in, assuming its a bright sunny day and you're shooting S mode where you set the shutter, camera picks the Fstop by metering itself. you can then switch to M and chose your own Aperture, but will you risk too much or too little light?
He means go to a higher number which is a smaller aperature. Why this works is because the higher the number the more things are in focus. Like landcape photogs would never dream of shoot at 2.8 because only the place where the focus point is aimed will be in focus. I really try to never shoot sports at 2.8 if I can help it. Try shooting at F/5.6 or a stop or two higher. This will give you better odds of the entire rider being in focus. So, if you don't know how to shoot in manual mode, which I'm assuming, you should switch to Aperature priority and set it at 5.6. If it isn't really bright outside this may make your shutter speed slow down too much. If it drops slower than around 800, you would want to turn off auto ISO, which I assume you shoot in, then increase the number a little at a time and test shoot untill you can get to a shutter speed that is fast enough to work in conjunction with that aperature resulting in a good crisp shot. Good luck and work on learning to master shooting in manual mode. It will make you a better photog in the longrun.
I keep experimenting in high sun, by checking my histogram at a new shooting site. Yesterday I shot Supermoto. The races started at 3:30 when the light was better than 12-2.
A way to control your image is to shoot manual (not manual AF). Personally I like to separate subject so I start with aperture. But then if you're shooting groups you need to close aperture. Single riders f2.8 small groups f4-4.5. Shutter speed isn't always a personal choice. Your lighting may ultimately determine that. I try the lowest I can get away with. Then check the histogram and find HOLY SH*t I'm blowing everything. Yesterday I had the adjust my EV to -5 and then put shutter speed where I could limit most of my colors from blowing. But sometimes the dynamic range is so great, I can't stop blowing entirely.
This I do for each shooting site, 2 cams, 2 sets of reach (it's a pain in the ass) and I still can't get it right..:D
Just a tip.. Shoot your ass off then learn to delete most of what you get. Most of these events take place in the worst part of the day, so you don't have the latitude a landscape photog has; to wait for the light
I shoot raw but you still have to tone down the blown out, because it's unrecoverable in PP.
Here's a few from yesterday and a self critique because of your dof question
Here I wanted to catch groups coming into and out of the turn in focus. I had my aperture set to f4 (too wide). The distance tween the two leaders and the 3rd rider (out of focus) was too great for my f4 dof. If I had f8 everyone would be in focus. But this stuff happens too fast for me to have presence of mind to change.
Between me and the erbe, you will be thoroughly confused..:D
He means go to a higher number which is a smaller aperature. Why this works is because the higher the number the more things are in focus. Like landcape photogs would never dream of shoot at 2.8 because only the place where the focus point is aimed will be in focus. I really try to never shoot sports at 2.8 if I can help it. Try shooting at F/5.6 or a stop or two higher. This will give you better odds of the entire rider being in focus. So, if you don't know how to shoot in manual mode, which I'm assuming, you should switch to Aperature priority and set it at 5.6. If it isn't really bright outside this may make your shutter speed slow down too much. If it drops slower than around 800, you would want to turn off auto ISO, which I assume you shoot in, then increase the number a little at a time and test shoot untill you can get to a shutter speed that is fast enough to work in conjunction with that aperature resulting in a good crisp shot. Good luck and work on learning to master shooting in manual mode. It will make you a better photog in the longrun.
greatly appreciated, I'm going to digest this and try to apply some next time out. Nikon is still out for service but hopefully back before this weekend. if not I'll go anyway. hopelessly hooked on local MX after an almost 30 year absence.
well my D40 still isn't back from service at Best Buy. I think they can't get all the dust and crud out of it...
so yesterday I borrowed my sons D80 and went back out to the track. I was going to try some A mode but it didn't seem to be set up the same way the D40 is. In A mode I could only change shutter unless I was doing something totally wrong.
who knows. so I threw it into Sports Mode and the rest is history..
we had a little rain storm which created some nice water holes. This may be the best of the day. The sun was just coming out as clouds were passing by so some were pretty dark but I'm thinking I caught just a smidge of light.
Dealing with the rain and mud spray from the bikes was a bit of a challenge. All in a days work.
Wow, wonderful first post Mark! Welcome to the board. It looks like we've got ourselves another good MX photog. I'm loving how many we have!! These shots are great. I wouldn't have said to do anything but since you want us to nitpick, the only and only small detail that I see that could have been made a little better with some post process is to use a light amount of burn on the plastic fenders or number plates that have alot of direct sunlight. Burn tool will take some of the glare away and saturate the color a tad. But that is just nitpicking like I said. Keep em coming brother! Nice use of borders as well.
Comments
well the Nikon went in for service today, all that dust took its toll on the 55-200 lens so the local schedule shows this as a good time to send it in.
I might even MX my WR in a Dual Sport class this sunday.
So when you say "rain gear" what kind of gear are you taking about?
I can see the controls thru the plastic and it rolls smaller than dedicated covers.
I don't really give a damn if I lose it either, I mean how far away is Sunday.
Rags
http://www.optechusa.com/product/detail/?PRODUCT_ID=73
http://www.knippixels.com
I have problems keeping details on the sunny side of the rider, they get blown out.
Rags
Yea, he probably metered off of the dark riding gear.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
Hey Erbe have you used Active D to mitigate that issue (high dynamic range)? I did and it sucks when cropping (a lot of noise)
How do you deal with it.
Rags
I tried the Active D lighting once in camera on a pic that had alot of shadow in it but I really didn't like not having control of what was changed. In Photoshop I can Post Process way better than my Nikon Camera's. So, if I can save the pic in PP, I will otherwise, I'll toss it. I downloaded the blown out pic posted earlier and did some PP to it and now, I think it's a decent pic compared to the original. Check it out. Just spend some time really learning Photoshop or whatever you use to PP and it will really help you save images.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
PP is a great software, but I'm pizzed off at Adobe. I bought Light Room 1.2 & 4 months later I changed cams (D700&D90) to find that LR wouldn't process. Adobe didn't put out firmware change and required that you buy LR2; I passed.
I never did like the proprietary file you wound up with after processing; who knows where Adobe will be in 20 yrs and if their new software will open the old files.
I use Picassa3 which is great for work flow; but not as good editing. I'm waiting for a decent NX, probably release #14
Rags
I think the image still needs some shadow work done to it, let me see more detail in the rider. There's lots of detail in the background but big whoop dee do.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Thanx for the info.The picture does look better.I've got PS CS4 and Lightroom so I'll play around with it some and see what workz...
Then I have a nef file + dng file + a jpg file.
I just have to learn to take better pictures....
Can I ask how do you work the focus? I've been trying to pre focus and wait till the raider reaches that point but I keep getting soft images,and on the jumps I haven't been able to calculate the distance,can you pass me a few tips?? Thank You...btw awesome shots!
When you prefocus, the point you prefocus on is held in the cam, which is ?ft from your subject. I tried it and it didn't work for me. It does in landscapes tho'.
Consider spot focus & wait till you get the subject and increase your fstop to increase depth of field (that can be your fudge factor). So if their coming at you fast, focus on any part of them. When you get your focus routine set you can start opening your lens to get better subject separation (less background focus).
I'm way open for criticism so if someone else wants to chime in please do.
Rags
No, that's good advise. The key point being to increase the depth of field.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
when you say increase the Fstop do you mean go to a more wide open or more closed aperture, and how do you account for lighting.
as in, assuming its a bright sunny day and you're shooting S mode where you set the shutter, camera picks the Fstop by metering itself. you can then switch to M and chose your own Aperture, but will you risk too much or too little light?
He means go to a higher number which is a smaller aperature. Why this works is because the higher the number the more things are in focus. Like landcape photogs would never dream of shoot at 2.8 because only the place where the focus point is aimed will be in focus. I really try to never shoot sports at 2.8 if I can help it. Try shooting at F/5.6 or a stop or two higher. This will give you better odds of the entire rider being in focus. So, if you don't know how to shoot in manual mode, which I'm assuming, you should switch to Aperature priority and set it at 5.6. If it isn't really bright outside this may make your shutter speed slow down too much. If it drops slower than around 800, you would want to turn off auto ISO, which I assume you shoot in, then increase the number a little at a time and test shoot untill you can get to a shutter speed that is fast enough to work in conjunction with that aperature resulting in a good crisp shot. Good luck and work on learning to master shooting in manual mode. It will make you a better photog in the longrun.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
A way to control your image is to shoot manual (not manual AF). Personally I like to separate subject so I start with aperture. But then if you're shooting groups you need to close aperture. Single riders f2.8 small groups f4-4.5. Shutter speed isn't always a personal choice. Your lighting may ultimately determine that. I try the lowest I can get away with. Then check the histogram and find HOLY SH*t I'm blowing everything. Yesterday I had the adjust my EV to -5 and then put shutter speed where I could limit most of my colors from blowing. But sometimes the dynamic range is so great, I can't stop blowing entirely.
This I do for each shooting site, 2 cams, 2 sets of reach (it's a pain in the ass) and I still can't get it right..:D
Just a tip.. Shoot your ass off then learn to delete most of what you get. Most of these events take place in the worst part of the day, so you don't have the latitude a landscape photog has; to wait for the light
I shoot raw but you still have to tone down the blown out, because it's unrecoverable in PP.
Here's a few from yesterday and a self critique because of your dof question
Between me and the erbe, you will be thoroughly confused..:D
So great to see so many MX shooters here, all talkin' and helping each other. I'm impressed with all of you!
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That is a beautiful pic. I had no idea you browsed this forum Andy. We hardly ever see any mods post in here.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
greatly appreciated, I'm going to digest this and try to apply some next time out. Nikon is still out for service but hopefully back before this weekend. if not I'll go anyway. hopelessly hooked on local MX after an almost 30 year absence.
thanks again for the input.
so yesterday I borrowed my sons D80 and went back out to the track. I was going to try some A mode but it didn't seem to be set up the same way the D40 is. In A mode I could only change shutter unless I was doing something totally wrong.
who knows. so I threw it into Sports Mode and the rest is history..
we had a little rain storm which created some nice water holes. This may be the best of the day. The sun was just coming out as clouds were passing by so some were pretty dark but I'm thinking I caught just a smidge of light.
Dealing with the rain and mud spray from the bikes was a bit of a challenge. All in a days work.
Looking for feedback in improvement, good or bad.
Thank you.
Great shots... what more can one say? I like #1 and #3 also.
Kelly
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro